Hermanos de Visita

   On Tuesday Oct. 11th, I arrived home from school to find my jet lagged brother passed out in my bed.  Then I found my equally sleepy sister in the other room.  Too excited to permit their sleeping any longer, I slapped bro Kevin on the foot and jumped on the bed next to twin-sis Liz.  So began our adventures.
   That first day was a unique one in Alicante thanks to the Scottish.  There was an international fútbol match that night in Alicante's Estadio Mundial between Spain and Scotland, so a horde of at least a thousand Scots (mostly men in kilts) were invading the streets of this helpless Spanish coastal town.  Between the hours of 4 and 8pm, they crowded every restaurant and bar, while the sounds of bagpipes and proud chanting could be heard throughout the city.  On our short tour of Alicante, we had to constantly walk through this slew of Scotsmen.  Then after some tapas and sangria, we walked back to the apartment via the route of a mob-parade that was processing from the coast to the fútbol stadium, shouting The Sound of Music's "Do Re Mi" among other things.  Fortunately, the raid was put down when España defeated "Escocia" 3-1.  Going out that night would have been much more problematic if such a rabble of Scots had taken to the fiesta, infused with alcohol and the pride of defeating the world's best soccer team.  But the Scots' loss combined with the fact that I had no school the following day allowed for a jubilant night in El Barrio among friends and, for the first time, family.

Small sample of the Scottish swarm

   The second day of their visit was special as well, because it was "Día de la Hispanidad", the Spanish speaking countries' version of Columbus Day, when all Hispanic cultures celebrate their heritage.  So all along the central coast line, there were kiosks representing each nationality with food, music, the sale of trinkets, and general good cheer.  We walked through this display on our way to the beach, where Kevin and Liz received their official Mediterranean baptisms.  The water was the calmest I've seen it, and you could see the ocean floor at any depth -- a magnificent day to soak up the sun.

Statue of Alfonso XII
Parque del Buen Retiro
Madrid

   We took Wednesday night easy and went out again Thursday, waking up early Friday morning to see Castillo de Santa Barbara before our departure to Madrid.  This being my second time there and my first time taking the stairs, it was a new experience for all, with picturesque views of the city, the sea, and the mountains.  Then later that day we saw much of the Spanish countryside, as well as the backs of our eyelids, on the train to Madrid.  Immediately obvious upon arrival was the beauty of the city - its cleanliness, its antique demeanor, and its incorporation or trees, gardens, and sculpture spread throughout the cityscape.  As to make the most of the following day, we made dinner and went to sleep in our hostel early that night.

   The next morning we sprung out of bed very slowly and made our way to Real Madrid's Estadio Santiago Bernabéu to buy tickets for the afternoon match against Real Betis, who hail from Sevilla.  Then we made our way toward the Prado Museum, by way of El Parque del Buen Retiro,

"enormous in a different aspect"
Parque del Buen Retiro, Madrid

one of several pristine parks in the city.  Just outside the north entrance sits a massive archway, and along the park's paths lie many interested things.  Of what we saw, there is Palacio de Cristal (Palace of Glass), Estanque del Retiro (Retiro Pond), and next to the pond, the monument to King Alfonso XII, with one enormous statue, and two statues that are enormous in a different aspect.  We also saw some huge ducks.  These ducks were about twice the size of the average mallard, and one of them showed a flock of pigeons who's the boss of eating bread crumbs.

   We made then it to the Prado, where photography is unfortunately prohibited.  The museum has far too much art to see in two and a half hours, but in that time we made a significant dent.  There were exhibits full of centuries old statues, classical Spanish paintings, Italian Renaissance art, and one of 19th century Spanish Romantic artist Francisco de Goya, for whom I have a found a new appreciation.  Impressively, many paintings were in the range of 15x20 feet or more.  The Prado has one work of Pablo Picasso, Acróbata en la Bola, but most of the work of Picasso, Salvador Dalí, and their 20th century contemporaries can be found in the Reina Sofia Museum, which we did not have time to see.  Maybe next time.

Liz in anticipation of Cristiano Renaldo

   Afterwards we went back to the Real Madrid stadium, this time for the Real deal.  [Travis Rainey, if you're reading this, yes I did say that I've taken to supporting Barça, but for one day I backed your boys in blanco.  I guess I'm not serious enough to have strict fútbol allegiances.  That being said, ¡venga azul y rojo, abajo con Real Mierda!]  Anyway, the game was a lot of fun.  From our seats, we had a perfect view of the bald spot on the head of the Real Betis goalie.  And after a scoreless first half, we witnessed five goals in the second, three of which comprised the hat-trick of #20 Gonzalo Higuaín.  The final score was 4-1 Madrid.

   Later, we got a taste of Madrid's nightlife.  The first event we encountered was a crossover between a working class protest and a "botellón", which is Spanish for "drinking in the streets", in the famous plaza of Puerta del Sol.  For our own good, we didn't stop there and instead went to a nearby bar district. There we found a fine establishmet called Soltera and made some temporary Spanish friends.  I was happy to play the translator.

Three Honolds and one Ciaravalli - Plaza de Toros, Madrid

   Then on Sunday, after a slow morning, we went to Madrid's Plaza de Toros to see a bullfight, or "torero".  We went primarily to meet a friend from Summit, Lauren Ciaravalli, who is studying in Madrid this semester.  We also went because we thought it would be interesting to see a bull fight, and yes it was 'interesting', though we all decided it would be our first and last time.  Let's just say it didn't turn out too well for the bulls.  If you have a strong stomach and a lust for authentic cultural experiences, I would recommend seeing one bullfight - just one.  To lighten the mood, there was a little niño outside the plaza after the torero, pretending to be a bull and running into his dad's coat.  It was mad adorable.

   That night we ate at a Spanish restaurant with a twelve euro deal on a quality three course meal.  We made a toast to having had a magnificent week and to having taken a satisfying bite out Spain.  Then we parted ways at the Madrid airport Monday morning, and are now back at our respective abodes, but it was awesome having my siblings visit.  To Liz and Kevin: love you guys and thanks for making my time in Spain that much better!

   Tomorrow I'm off to Grenada for the weekend, so expect a post next week about another Spanish city.  And there will be something about graffiti eventually, it's just that I keep finding more of it.  Por lo tanto, ¡estad atentos!

Boda

   Something I can't neglect to blurb about is the marriage of my host parents, Fer and Lis.  On Friday September 23rd, my "padres españoles" tied the knot after being together for nine years.  In leading up to this, Fer's brother and sister in-law, Farcundo and Adriana, came from Argentina to visit Spain.  Although the Argentinian accent is considerably harder for me to decipher, they were a pleasant addition to the household, and Farco and I were able to bond over the guitar and conversations about music.

As they say in Spain when Fer y Lis get married... ¡Ferlisidades!

   Unfortunately I had class during the ceremony, but the following night was la cena, or "the reception", which featured several rounds of tapas, a bar, and a dance floor.  Loads of fun, it was a good opportunity to practice my Spanish and show off my dance moves.  As for the cultural aspect, Spanish wedding receptions are a lot like American ones though not nearly as formalized, lacking aspects that are obligatory in America, such as the first dance, the throwing of the bouquet, and Motown's 25 Greatest Hits.  However, two things true to any wedding are tons of photos and cheerful times.  The image to the right is both of these.  ¡Felizidades, padres!

Bienvenidos a Valencia

 Hola, faithful readers.  I've been meaning all week to write about my excursion to Valencia, but I have so much free time that it's hard to decide which of it to spend on Honoldblog.  Anyway, thanks for the patience.  Oh and I have a camera now.

A View of a Church, from a Church - Valencia

  So last Saturday morning, September 17th, all twenty-four students in my program boarded a bus headed for Valencia, which sits on la Costa Blanca two and a half hours north of Alicante.  Upon arrival, we had a quick bus tour followed by a walking tour.  On the bus we learned that, like many Spanish cities, Valencia was originally built under the Muslim caliphate, which ruled most of Spain for most of the middle ages.  It is a medieval phenomenon that Muslims, Christians, and Jews lived more or less in peace here throughout this period.  As evidence, there are both mosques and cathedrals in the old part of Valencia.  We walked through one of these cathedrals, which was far from the most impressive church I've been to but quite ornate none the less, its distinctive feature being a garden with trees of inedible yet incredibly fragrant oranges.
   During a one hour break, my amigo Nick and I walked into a little music shop and jammed, thereby discovering that we are each other's equals in musical enthusiasm.  And this was my first time playing bass in Spain.  Quite the thrill.  Nick and I are taking a flamenco guitar class together beginning in October and we've agreed to look for more opportunities to jam.  Doubtlessly there will be more on musical happenings in future posts.

Oceanogràfic - Valencia

   After the break, we got back on the bus and headed to La Oceanagràfic.  A facility of modern architecture with swooping buildings that evoke the ocean's waves, this is the largest aquarium in Europe.  There we saw many citizens of the aquatic community like penguins, sharks, walruses, beluga whales, and a variety of ugly fishes.  But none of the fish tanks could compare to La Programa de los Delfines, which gave me a new and profound appreciation for dolphins.  For one thing, it's clear that they are very close to human intelligence.  Also, they smile a lot.  We saw them dance to The Rolling Stones' "Who Do You Love?" by lifting themselves out of the water and back peddling on their flippers.  We watched as one trainer with his feet planted on two bottle shaped noses was brought to the bottom of the tank, then launched twenty feet in the air.  And we witnessed the dolphins themselves leap in synchrony from the water, doing as many as three flips at a time.  ¡Que magnifico!
    Afterward, much of the group boarded the bus back to Alicante.  I am grateful that my friend Bobby, who was feeling a little under the weather, offered me his place in a hostel for the night.  Thus I was part of a crew of four compañeros who stuck it out for the night.  So Blake, Gayle, Amy, and I checked into our hostel and went looking for a place to eat, but we discovered more than expected.
    Strolling by Valencia's Plaza de los Toros, we heard a ruckus.  It was a German-esque ruckus of polka music and the shouts of people who could only have had large mugs of beer in their fists.  That's right, it was Oktoberfest on Tour, so we went to investigate.  After a pint, we made plans to recuperate at the hostel before returning to Oktoberfest for the night.  And we did just that.  After 10pm there was ten euro fee which granted entry and a liter of Paulaner ale, thus everyone was obliged to drink at least that much.  Following the flow of beer was the flow of Spanish, so it was easy to make friends with those around us.  And we danced the night away, as the music alternated between American oldies and that of a questionably authentic German band.  ¡Que magnifico!

View from atop the castle

    The next morning, we woke up with the intention of seeing as much of Valencia as possible before our 5:15pm bus time.  After breakfast we stumbled upon a castle in the old part of town.  We climbed to the top, where there was a great view of the Valencian cityscape, inclusive of antique bell towers and modern buildings in the distance.

Enwizened Gentleman Reading
El Jardìn Botanico de la Universidad Valenciana

 




    Then we happened upon the botanical gardens of Univeridad Valenciana and enjoyed a stroll past elaborate gates and fountains, through the shade of exotic trees.  Apparently many stray cats inhabit this garden, along with elderly folks reading books.
    After an hour in the garden, we continued our route in the general direction of the bus station, and came across a large park that separates the old and new parts of the city.  But we turned back in order to find a place to eat lunch.  The first establishment we tried denied us due to siesta hours (if my American readers can believe it), but the second was willing to serve us hot bocadillos and cold sangria.

Human Evolution in Skulls

    Then we were fortunate to come upon a museum, one half of which is dedicated to archaeological human history, the other to Valencian cultural history.  To my surprise there was a row of skulls from various periods of human evolution and all the Homos were present, including Sapien.  In addition, there were many tools and pottery pieces from several thousands of years ago.  On the other side of the museum, I saw perhaps the most magnificent pair of corduroys I've ever laid eyes on.  They were patched together from different earth-tone shades of fabric sometime during the early twentieth century.  Now to my lament, I didn't take a picture.
    We concluded our excursion with a walk through the aforementioned park, which runs about one hundred meters wide and two miles long, with many winding paths, tall tress, plazas, fields, and fountains.  After walking a ways, finding a bench, and having an in depth conversation about mortality, we made our way toward the bus station.  It had been a long and tiring excursion, though worth every minute, and we were ready to go home to Alicante.
     Having been on this trip, I have gotten a taste of European travel, and I'm excited to venture elsewhere.  As of now, I have plans for traveling to Barcelona, Madrid, and Granada as well as two weeks set aside after my semester ends for seeing Europe.  So as always, stay tuned.  And I'll make my next post sooner this time.  Maybe something about graffiti...

Routine

   Since arriving in Spain eleven days ago, I've fallen into a routine.  On weekdays, my classes are from 10 to 11am and 12 to 3pm.  Of course I pay attention, but my best practice comes from speaking Spanish with the cute Russian girl who I sit next to in both classes, coincidentally.  After catching the bus home, I play guitar for an hour or two, then walk to the beach where I am part of a group that maintains the same location from about 1 to 8 o'clock.  As a daily ritual, I go for a swim in the Mediterranean.  The sea water is much saltier than ocean water, so it's very easy to float on the surface. It's a soul cleansing experience.  Then I go back to mi casa, do my homework, and eat dinner with mi familia.  Sometimes I go out briefly or play guitar before going to sleep.
   I had wanted to get a guitar in Spain for several months, figuring I would need a musical outlet and this would be a good opportunity to really learn the instrument.  So on Wednesday I walked up to Alicante's Plaza de los Toros and into a music shop I'd found called Rogel.  Fifteen minutes later I walked out with a beautiful little natural colored flamenco guitar, went home, and played for the rest of the day.  Since then, I have been very content.
   And I've made it through my first weekend.  In Spain, the nightlife doesn't begin until 12 o'clock, and it doesn't end until after the sun comes up.  During this time, all the fun in Alicante is centralized to a district called 'el barrio' or 'the neighborhood'.  Bars in el barrio distinguish themselves with neon signs, one euro drink specials, and different sequences of the same ten electro-pop songs.  And it's not enough to stay at one establishment for the night; everybody bar hops and hangs out in the streets, effectively resulting in one big block party.  During the 3 o'clock hour, the bar scene shifts toward the club scene, and the truly dedicated ride it out until 7 or 8am.
   This is how I celebrated what was my twentieth birthday and my first cumpleaños, on Saturday September 10th.  Because the party doesn't start until midnight, my celebration happened Friday night.  I was with a crew of about twelve people, so I had a great time tearing up the dance floor and letting friends buy me drinks.  The following day was spent on the beach at San Juan, which is a fifteen minute tram ride from central Alicante.  At San Juan, the beach is longer, the waves are bigger, the water is clearer, the people are fewer, and the relaxation is greater.  Then after going home for a wonderful dinner with my host family, I walked to el barrio and went through the nightlife routine described above.  I made it to 5am.  My lazy Sunday has been spent resting and getting ready to begin my routine again.
    Lastly, today is 9/11/2011.  It's odd to be across the ocean from the United States today, ten years past the attacks on the World Trade Center and the Pentagon.  Here, I've heard it mentioned only once, in conversation with a fellow American exchange student.  Even the way the date is written - 11/9 - doesn't represent the significance of the day.  Meanwhile, a Facebook dominated by statuses of remembrance represents the sentiments of every Americans on this day.  So a blessing for my home country, the lives that were lost, and the strength we gained from the experience.  Keep remembering, everybody.
   But no matter where you are, it is always time to look toward the future.  Now that I have my weekly schedule down, I must begin to focus on other things, like perfecting my Spanish and finding more new experiences to blog about.  Stay tuned.

Something Funny

    So the director of my program speaks English fairly well but it's not perfect.  In particular, she could help herself by correcting two problems.  The first is that her hard "T" sounds like a "D".  The second is that she replaces to phrase "to be late" with "get late".  The reason she should correct these problems is because when she was explaining that it's understandable if we can't find our classroom on the first day she said, "It's okay, everybody gets late on the first day of classes."  If you do the math, you can imagine the fit of hoots and chuckles that my group broke into when she said that.

Mis Tres Primeros Dìas

Es mi tercera dìa en españa, y estes dìas han estado muy diferente de cualquier experiencia he tenido en mi vida.  En el aeropuerto de madrid, mi experiencia comenzò realmente cuando un chico dijo, “Hey there’s that guy!”  Me girè para ver este chico y dos chicas de mi aviòn de JFK.  “Hello,” dije.  Y que tal, tenìa mis primeros amigos en españa, Sam, Joelle, y Rachel.  Esto fue muy fortunado porque cuando llegamos en alicante, me ofrecò por el director de sus programa que quiera tener una paseo en el autobus gratis a mi hotel.  Y ese noche, tuve una cena gratis con sus programa tambien.  Shwing.

En mi segundo dìa, conocè los estudiantes de mi programa, y me gusta mucho.  Hay vente y quatro personas, y ya puedo determinar que seràn muy importante a mi tiempo en españa.  Comimos almuerzo en el hotel, y mas tarde comimos cena en un restaurante de tapas.  La sangria era delicioso.  Y ese noche, fui con seis compañeros a un bar se dice “Nuve Nuve” donde conocimos un chico y una chica ingleses y jovenes, entonces todos nosotros fuimos a la playa.  Nadè en el medeterràneo con la ropa puesta.

Esta mañana, sacamos somos primero viaje al campus y esta muy bonito.  Pues, despues de devolver al hotel, conocimos nuestras familias de viviendo.  Ahora, he fue en sus casa bonita por tres horas.  Aquì, hay un balcòn con una buena vista de los dos castillos de alicante.  Tambien, tienen un perro negro quien es muy adorable y amable.  Y por supuesto, mi familia es muy amable y generoso.  Aquì, estoy muy contento.

For the first time ever, I’m at least 95% confident with my Spanish grammar.  Some of the above might be awkwardly worded, but I know that it all makes sense.  Today, having spoken with mi familia for a solid hour and a half, I am twice the Spanish speaker I ever was before.  I had to make this post en español porque ahora es mas facil que todo mi tiempo en la clase de español and I’m on a roll right now.

For those of you who didn’t understand the above, here’s a quick run through:

I’ve been in Alicante for three days.  On my first day, in the Madrid airport, I met a few people who happened to be also headed to Alicante for the semester, though with a different program.  I hung out with them the first day/night and it granted me a free bus ride to my hotel and a free restaurant dinner.  On the second day, I met the students from my program, and found many of them to be great people.  We ate lunch and dinner as a group before I went with six companions to a bar called “Nuve Nuve”.  Fue muy bien.  There, we met two British Blokes who were relieved to hear some people speaking English.  They went to the beach with us at 2:30am and I swam in the Mediterranean with my clothes on.  This morning, I saw the University of Alicante campus, and it is beautiful.  Then I met my host family.  They are extremely gracious and friendly, and their apartment has a great view of Alicante’s two castles.  And to boot, they have the most adorable black lab.  I am content.

Ahora, tomo una siesta porque esta siesta, y es mi derecho que tomo una siesta durante siesta.  Gracias, y buenos noches.

Departure

Sitting in JFK terminal seven, I feel like I'm on the first ascent of a gigantic rollercoaster, waiting to be dropped into a crazy ride.  I've got that heavy feeling feeling in my stomach.  Nervousness?  No… anticipation.  Once this rollercoaster starts to drop, I might be taken aback by the gravity of it, but I know that I'll be thrilled.  And I'm definitely not going to look behind me.